| Issue 90 VII-VIII 2001 22 |
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CASAS A LA CARTA Houses by Choice |
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| Luis Fernández-Galiano La casa de alta costura The High-Fashion House 25 casas y 25 casos 25 Works and 25 Images Casa Elektra, Londres (Reino Unido) Elektra House, London (United Kingdom) David Adjaye Casa Roser, Sant Privat de Bas (España) Roser House, Sant Privat de Bas (Spain) Aranda, Pigem & Vilalta Casa MA, Itoshima-gun (Japón) MA House, Itoshima-gun (Japan) Hiroyuki Arima Casa Schmitz, Calera de Tango (Chile) Schmitz House, Calera de Tango (Chile) Felipe Assadi Casa en Zachary, Louisiana (Estados Unidos) Zachary House, Louisiana (United States) Stephen Atkinson La casa desnuda, Kawagoe (Japón) Naked House, Kawagoe (Japan) Shigeru Ban Casa en Islington, Londres (Reino Unido) House in Islington, London (United Kingdom) Benson & Forsyth Refugio, Campo de Vallemaggia (Suiza) Shelter, Campo de Vallemaggia (Switzerland) Roberto Briccola Casa Asencio, Chiclana (España) Asencio House, Chiclana (Spain) Alberto Campo Baeza Casa con almacén, Herzebrock (Alemania) House and Warehouse, Herzebrock (Germany) Drewes & Strenge Casa Tagomago, San Carlos (España) Tagomago House, San Carlos (Spain) Ferrater & Guibernau Casa en el lago Starnberg, Münsing (Alemania) House on Lake Starnberg, Münsing (Germany) Fink & Jocher Residencia Tyler, Tubac (Estados Unidos) Tyler Residence, Tubac (United States) Rick Joy Casa GGG, México DF (México) GGG House, Mexico DF (Mexico) Alberto Kalach Residencia de artistas, Vejby (Dinamarca) Residence for Artists, Vejby (Denmark) Henning Larsen Residencia Cohen, Osprey (Estados Unidos) Cohen Residence, Osprey (United States) Toshiko Mori Casa Fletcher Page, Kangaroo Valley (Australia) Fletcher Page House, Kangaroo Valley (Australia) Glenn Murcutt Casa-estudio, Amsterdam (Holanda) Studio House, Amsterdam (Holland) MVRDV Refugio en el bosque, Monte Fuji (Japón) A Shelter in the Woods, Mount Fuji (Japan) Satoshi Okada Casa Le Goff, Marsella (Francia) Le Goff House, Marseille (France) Rudy Ricciotti Casa urbana, Tokio (Japón) Urban House, Tokyo (Japan) Kazuyo Sejima Casa Puente Soivio, Vammala (Finlandia) Puente Soivio House, Vammala (Finland) Jukka Siren Casa-torre, Stuttgart (Alemania) Tower-House, Stuttgart (Germany) Werner Sobek Casa cubo, Ithaca (Estados Unidos) Cube House, Ithaca (United States) Simon Ungers Casa en el canal, Amsterdam (Holanda) House on the Canal, Amsterdam (Holland) Koen van Velsen |
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Luís Fernández-Galiano The High-Fashion House |
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Is there a future for the high-fashion house? The announced
retirement of Yves Saint Laurent marks a symbolic milestone in the decline of textile
high-fashion; and the heteroclite dispersion of the houses gathered here eloquently
illustrates the current puzzlement of architectural high-fashion. In the fashion industry,
the decreasing demand of exclusive models has turned haute couture into a mere flagship
for the mass products of the company, from the prêt-à-porter to perfumes and
accessories, in a transition from the label to the brand which underscores the
contemporary predominance of the logo. In the area of building construction, the growing
difference in cost in the peripheral city between custom-made and standardized houses has
often reduced the former to an occasion for aesthetic experiments, in many cases aimed at
the mediatic presence of the architect. High-fashion has been as characteristic of the 20th century as high-design, and it would not be outrageous to think that perhaps they will take their last bow at the same time. The clients of the couturier and the architect have frequently been the same ones, clothes have expressed social changes with the same effectiveness as signature houses, and fashion has finally entered the museum following the trail of domestic architectures. Dressing differently and living differently are closely linked options which one associates with the breakthrough experimentalism of a century of avant-gardes, but they are also distinctive features which contribute to shape an exclusive universe for social elites. The originality of the outfit, as the singularity of the house, define at once an object of research in the elusive realm of style and an appetite for distinction through the closely-woven sieves of taste. There is, of course, a criticism of the house which reproaches the single-family dwelling for its avid consumption of land and energy, presenting it as the most voracious threat against the scarce resources of the planet; and there is also an ominous view of the isolated residence as the archetypal statement of the extreme individualism of our times, which has transformed its initial liberating virtue into dysfunctional antisocial fragmentation; but those objections are equally applied to high and low architectural practice. However, the high-fashion house is under the specific and slightly sultry shadow of fantasy: that exacerbation of the singular subjectivity beyond objective existence which broke apart the art form which undoubtedly shaped the expired century the cinema divided from its beginnings between the documentary calling of Lumière and the haphazard imagination of Méliès. Withering the latter? Returning the former? |
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